One shoe, builton your own last.

Last is a shoemaker. Three styles, sewn by hand, from your foot's own form.

Five layers, one shoe.

Keep going. It comes apart along one line.

Closed again, exactly.

Everything that could be glued is sewn. So all of it can be replaced.

Outsole
Welt
Insole
Lining
Upper
The assembled Derby from above

Upper

Full-grain calf, one hide.

Lining

Kid, soft against the sock.

Insole

Takes your print in a month.

Welt

The seam that allows resoling.

Outsole

Oak-bark, tanned for a year.

Three styles. One last.

Wear
Shown in

Thirty-eight hours, one pair of hands.

Hour 0
A carved beech last

Carve

Beech, cut from your tracing. Yours stays on our shelf.

Insole

Insole

Soaked, tacked to the last, left to dry overnight.

Lining over the insole

Lining

Kid leather, pulled over first and pinned flat.

Upper over the lining

Upper

Calf, drawn tight by hand. Then three days to set.

Welt around the upper

Welt

Sewn through upper and insole. 180 stitches, by awl.

The finished Derby

Sole

Oak-bark, stitched in a channel. Heel stacked in five lifts.

Close view of the welt stitching and calf grain

Seven stitches to the inch. Count them.

The beech last

A last is the wooden form a shoe is built on. It is also our name.

We carve yours once and keep it. Every later pair and every resole goes back on it.

Bring them back in ten years.

We resole on your last for $95, for as long as the upper holds. Ten working days, post included.

"Third pair on the same last. The first still goes to work." Tomasz R., Gdynia
The Derby in bone leather